The human factor

The most recent studies of fossilised plants suggest that vines first appeared in Transcaucasia. Perhaps in those lands "Noah planted the vine" (Genesis IX, 20). Afterwards the presence of vines began to expand to the east and towards the west. Wine flowed during the feasts of Bacchus and Dionysus. The definition of the just measure of this "delightful drink" was used as a prologue to Plato's "Banquet".

The Greeks brought vines to our western coastline. Romans and christianisation extended their plantation inland. This process brought vines to the Rioja, probably with a very different level of intensity to that found in present plantations. Perhaps Rioja Alta was not a wine-producing area? The arrival of Islam with uprootings in dominated lands, may have caused it the planting of vines, for the first time, in northern areas and, of course, in the climatic"corner" of the Rioja Alta. Paradoxically Islam indirectly exercised an optimum viticultural selection from the point of view of modern-day enology; although, of course, this selection was not consolidated. In the Rioja Alta and in more northerly areas, vines invaded "ortos, hereditates, sernas", all types of worked land. This intensification of vine-growing was followed by an attempt to force production with irrigation "... ad rigandun ortos suos, aut vineas, aut hereditates...".

A thousand years ago, the first intentions to produce wine took root in the Rioja. In those days it was the pilgrim road to Santiago that was the motivation; today, it is the European Common Market.

Huet de Lemps defines Rioja wine as the consequence of an "intelligent attitude in an exceptional environment". An environment which is highly favourable for vines and men who are capable of working them with intelligence. All of this is subtle, as Azorín expressed, referring perhaps, when mentioning the word Rioja, both to the environment and man. Subtlety and perspicaciousness which, when based on simple tasks, and insignificant work without intending it, have become very important. As with the sharp marginal note of the anonymous interpreter of the "Glosas Emilianenses" which, based on a rebellious action, has served as the basis, "per excellence", of the Hispanic academic structure. Such was the miracle of San Millán who multiplied unused wine, perhaps to avoid suspicion, without using water as the starting point. As were the Quintano brothers of Labastida, a clergyman and an army officer, who established the Bordeaux system, replacing the traditional ageing techniques which had been applied to their wines.

At first, Rioja wine producers vatted their grapes whole, which favoured intercellular fermentation. Afterwards they separated the typical qualities of "lágrima", "medio" and "corazón", using the latter, the strongest, for ageing. More than a century ago this tradition was replaced by the Bordeaux method which established a standard volume for ageing casks and the racking method; as well as the custom of destemming to obtain agreable wines.

Such an intelligent attitude to grapes - Rioja wine is not made with feet - gives rise to wines with fine aroma, vivid colour and very important bromatological conditions which allows dense thoughts to flow freely. The faithful transfer to the intellect of such a subtle land.

The reader may wonder about the place occupied in this vision of the Rioja and its wine by men who, having come from so far away, were so important for the Rioja in the last century. We could reply with the popular aphorism that the bull does not really come from where it is born but from where it grazes. But it seems undignified to limit man to quirks of chance and to grazing, or if you wish, only to grazing, although this might evoke a sense of peace. The destiny of these men, wisely, was to concentrate on the land, on the soil where they found their spiritual coordinates, will and imagination. And - what better course to steer by than wine? An exceptional wine, the most important of agricultural products in time, in space and, of course, the only one with a third dimension - ideas.